Bursting the Bubble: Coolidge Corner

Yes, yes, college is great and everything, but in this city filled with college students it’s sometimes comforting to go someplace where the other demographics are visible.

Coolidge Corner, at the crossroads of Beacon St. and Harvard St., is a refreshing change from the oftentimes hectic atmosphere of campus. It is the commercial center of Brookline and home to Brookline’s first business–the Coolidge & Brother general store–in 1857. Today, it’s the T stop on the C line that 60% of the passengers get off at. It isn’t hard to see why, as it’s a charming combination of history and enterprising modernity.  The Tudor-style SS Pierce building and clock tower, built in 1898, gives way to streets lined with a vibrant  assortment of restaurants of every cuisine and small businesses that offer everything from clothes and books to cigars, puzzles, and soap.

There’s a lot to do and see, but for starters, here’s what a day in Coolidge Corner looks like:

Morning

10AM: Start your day off with breakfast or brunch at Zaftig’s Delicatessen (335 Harvard St.). Be prepared to wait on a weekend, though! This Jewish deli is known for their generously filled sandwiches and decadent Challah French toast and, not surprisingly, is a favorite of the neighborhood.

Afternoon:

12PM: Grab a coffee from Peet’s Coffee and Tea (285 Harvard St.) and meander down to Brookline Booksmith (279 Harvard St.), one of the best independent bookstores this side of the Charles. Every section is peppered with handwritten recommendations from the staff, and the collection is varied and selected with care. There is even a second-hand book section in the basement, which frequently hosts talks by authors.

1PM: Walk down the street a little ways and turn onto Beals St. If it weren’t for the sign, you would never guess that one of the many homes on this quiet, tree-lined nook was the birthplace of John F. Kennedy. Take a free tour through the JFK National Historic Site (83, Beals St.), which is open May-October from Wednesday to Sunday.

2PM: Grab a late lunch at Bottega Fiorentina (313B Harvard St.), a little Italian restaurant that is smaller, but no less charming, than its Newbury sister. Go on a Wednesday or Sunday and any regular pasta dish is only $4.99!  

 Evening:

4PM: Watch a movie the old-fashioned way at Coolidge Corner Theatre (290 Harvard St.), which has been entertaining crowds since 1933 when it was converted from a church to an Art Deco movie palace. New or old, international, local or independent, its selection of cinema is eclectic and interesting. And even if the movie doesn’t end up being that great, the grandeur of the interiors is something to behold.

Night

7PM: End the day in Paris. Or as close to it as you’re going to get from here. Paris Creperie (278 Harvard St.) boasts a colorful selection of both sweet and savory crepes that are inspired by the traditional French delicacy. Accompany your food with one of their famous Nutella frozen hot chocolates and you have the perfect end to a perfect day.

Yes, you will have seen a lot of elderly people, and children, and it’s a little disconcerting to rediscover their existence after the black hole that is a campus. But Coolidge Corner and Brookline possess a peacefulness that is elusive during the semester. Whether you’d rather be taking in the sights, or sitting on a bench with a cup of coffee and watching the lazy river of life pass by, it’s a slice of idyllic heaven that is close to home, and feels kind of like it.

Directions via Public Transport: take the C Line towards Cleveland Circle, get off at the Coolidge Corner T stop.  Directions on foot: (from Central Campus) walk down St. Mary’s St. to Beacon St. Take a right and walk for 0.7 miles.